Story Category: Legacy

Museum Mentors Online

This is a legacy story from an earlier version of our website. It may contain some formatting issues and broken links.

Museum Mentors is a community project, creating a space for adults with support needs to meet up, make art and connect with their peers in the wonderful surroundings of Brighton Museum and the Royal Pavilion.  

Museum Mentors usually meet twice weekly in the art room at Brighton Museum where we all enjoy art, chat, tea and plenty of biscuits. 

Although we are missing our art sessions during lockdown, both staff and group members remain in touch and are working to keep creative activities going: members are receiving postal projects, email messages and collections inspired information. Museum Mentors social media is helping to bridge the contact gap.

It is here we will showcase our Museum Mentors work and post updates on what we are doing. Do take a look and see what we’re up to. We hope you enjoy our posts.

You can find us online via

Creative Together Online Free Event

Join Creative Together from the 2nd June – 7th July as they host a weekly Zoom workshop, supporting members to draw and create together. For more details see their Facebook Events page 

May 2020

Museum Mentors

We sent out the second batch of colouring postcards earlier this month. These were created from line drawings based on members’ artwork.

This postcard was coloured in by Mike. The original artwork for the line drawing was done by Sharon.

Mike

Museum Mentors also received some drawing inspiration put together by Collections Assistant Lucy. These included pictures of interesting teapots from the Willett Collection of popular pottery and ‘Bud and Barkage’ – a contemporary ceramic sculpture by Carole Windham of a small dog, sitting nicely awaiting our return! 

Bud and Barkage, Carole Windham

Bud and Barkage, Carole Windham

That’s all for this week. Look out for more Museum Mentors group updates soon.

 Sally Welchman, Museum Mentors

 

The Death of Nelson Remembered in Pottery

This is a legacy story from an earlier version of our website. It may contain some formatting issues and broken links.

Welcome back to our Cultural Icons series exploring the fascinating stories behind the people commemorated in flatback ornaments in the Willett Collection of Popular Pottery in the Brighton Museum.

Many of these Victorian souvenirs, which are only decorated on the front so they can sit on a mantelpiece were on display at Hove Museum this year.

They were usually of famous and sometimes infamous people in the Victoria era who we would now call stars or celebrities. The hearth, the centre of the home, provided an ideal space for the flatback as a conversation piece inspiring discussion and fascination among family and visitors alike.

The tragic death of Nelson

Staffordshire flatbacks were also created and enjoyed as souvenirs of historic national events. The death of Nelson provided a subject for a dramatic figure group created in c1850, reflecting his heroism and ultimate sacrifice. The piece recreates the moment, albeit with some artistic licence, that Nelson falls to the deck of HMS Victory, struck with a bullet fired from the French ship ‘Redoubtable’ during the Battle of Trafalgar in 1815.

Dr William Beatty who attended Nelson as he lay dying recounted the event as followed:

About fifteen minutes past one o’clock, which was in the heat of the engagement, he (Nelson) was walking the middle of the quarter-deck with Captain Hardy, and was in the act of turning near the hatchway….when the fatal ball was fired from the enemy’s mizzen-top…The ball struck the epaulette on his left shoulder and penetrated his chest. He fell…Captain Hardy, on turning round, saw the Sergeant Major of Marines with two seamen raising him from the deck; where he’d fallen…Captain Hardy expressed a hope that he was not severely wounded; to which the gallant Chief replied: ‘They have done for me at last, Hardy.’ – ‘ I hope not’ answered Captain Hardy. ‘Yes,’ replied his lordship; ‘my backbone is shot through.’

Discover More

Follow our Cultural Icons series as we explore some of these fascinating flatbacks and discover of these early celebrities.

Cecilia Kendall, Curator, Collections Projects

University of Brighton Craft MA: Featured Maker

This is a legacy story from an earlier version of our website. It may contain some formatting issues and broken links.

Each year Hove Museum & Art Gallery invites the talented makers from the University of Brighton’s Craft MA course to exhibit their final pieces, offering fresh insight into contemporary craft making.

As the university has had to close its doors due to Covid 19, we decided to do a Q & A with the students to showcase their work and see how they were keeping their creative flow going.

Our first interview is with Susan Ramsay-Smith. Susan is a member of Kent Potters and Sussex Arts Collective. She was Chairperson of Sussex Potters for many years and has exhibited with London Potters & Weald Crafts.

How would you describe yourself as a maker?

Susan Ramsay-Smith

I’m an ecological potter processing the Weald Clay from our farm in order to produce a unique, ferrous rich, textured, contemporary material which is a challenge to work with, but has produced some great surprises like firing to stoneware. I love to combine thrown and hand-built components to create large vessels or sculptural work.

What inspires you to create your work?

Recently I’ve been researching my rich, local iron heritage and creating pig iron cannons on wooden, wheeled carriages and ceramic gunstone sculptures based on a 32 pounder weight of shot found at Wimbles, near Heathfield. British wildlife like the Common toad Bufo bufo, captivate me each year when they emerge from their earth homes to migrate back to the lake. They often feature as a textured surface or mottled glaze.

Pig iron cannon on wooden, wheeled carriages by Susan Ramsey-Smith

Pig iron cannon on wooden, wheeled carriages by Susan Ramsay-Smith

Are there any particular artists/makers you are interested in or feel connected with?

Susan Ramsey Smith painting her map of walks taken around her farm

Susan Ramsay-Smith working on her ‘map of walks’

Anne Mette from Bornholm stimulated my interest in experimenting with using my own clay when I visited her studio in 2018 with Making Lewes. I feel connected with Charlotte Pack who is a wonderful animal sculpturist but also uses her skills to highlight the plight of elephants, killed for their tusks and other species that are on the endangered list. David Nash’s 200 series exhibition at the Towner Art Gallery inspired me to create a map of walks taken from our farm to the nearby clay and ironwork sites. The maps are painted using only found, ground minerals and earth slips.

Map of walks taken from Susan’s farm to the nearby clay and ironwork sites

Are there any pieces in our craft collection at Hove Museum that you are drawn to?

I remember being amazed at a wonderfully intricate, colourful, enamel vessel by Jane Short. I was practicing with enamelling on copper and steel in the University of Brighton metal workshops before they were abruptly closed. I wanted to incorporate mixed media in order to learn a new process.

Jane Short, Silver vessel formed by Anton Pruden with enamel & engraving

Jane Short, Silver vessel formed by Anton Pruden with enamel & engraving

What materials do you prefer to work with and what are the properties in those materials that you like?

I’ve been using clay as a medium for over 25 years and am still excited by its metamorphosis. It can be turned from a lump of earth into a variety of differently shaped objects which can be both delicate and strong, functional, architectural or sculptural. Their finish can be matt, shiny, smoked or salt glazed, smooth or textured. The finished product all depends on three key ingredients: the decisions and skills of the craft person handling the clay, some water and fire or heat – this is the magic of alchemy.

How are you working creatively during ‘lockdown’?

Luckily I have a pottery studio, so I’ve been able to finish glaze firing the cannon ball sculptures I’d started as part of my Craft MA course before we were told to stop making due to the Corona Virus pandemic. Another piece I’d started was painting a large canvas map of the farm with the surrounding clay test sites and ironwork locations marked. I wanted to use the natural colour of the slips I created from local sourced ground rock and clays as pigments, with no idea if this would adhere and last on this kind of surface. Luckily it has so far and I thoroughly enjoyed the freedom of using large brushes with no expectation of the results.

Cannon ball structure by Susan Ramsey Smith

Cannon ball structure by Susan Ramsay-Smith

Cannon ball structure by Susan Ramsey-Smith

Cannon ball structure by Susan Ramsay-Smith

Do you have any tips/advice to give to other creatives out there who might be struggling to find their creative flow?

I find walking and observing the natural world always sparks another idea I’d like to try, initially maybe with a sketch or paints which helps to start the creative process and gives me time to think it through.

Discover more

You can find out more about Susan’s work and her tutoring by visiting the Experience Sussex website 

Follow her on Instagram: Susan Ramsay-Smith

Hove Museum & Art Gallery houses one of the best contemporary craft collections in the South East. The collection includes The South East Arts Collection and a collection of contemporary craft made by national makers. Learn more about the contemporary craft collection at Hove Museum & Art Gallery on the Museum’s contemporary craft webpage

Grace Brindle, Collections Assistant

Hidden Pictures – Albrecht Dürer and a Discovery (1471-1528)

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Paper Conservator, Amy Junker Heslip, continues to reflect on some of the objects that have passed through her hands for conservation treatments and exhibition preparation.

This week I have been missing doing some practical conservation work and nothing beats the feeling of an exciting discovery!

In 2018 I was carrying out some routine conservation treatments on our collection of Albrecht Dürer prints.

A small print had been historically mounted on a larger supporting paper. However, it was poorly mounted causing buckling and creasing to the print and so it was thought beneficial for the print to be separated. After documentation and treatment planning and then testing the ink for water sensitivity (and gently surface cleaning the print and support paper), I humidified and immersed the print in a bath of warm water.

The Last Supper by Albrecht Durer

After just a few minutes the paste layer softened in the water bath and the two sheets began to separate to reveal the most wonderful surprise in the supporting sheet below.

Durer discovery water wash

The supporting sheet revealed a stunning pencil sketch of a stallion being attacked by two dogs, one dog at the stallion’s head and the other dog behind the stallion’s back legs.

Horse and two Dogs, artist unknown

We still need further research to find out if this is an undiscovered masterpiece, but for now this is safely housed in our fine art, prints and drawing store.

Find out more about Albrecht Dürer

Amy Junker Heslip, Paper Conservator

Tirzah Garwood, Artist and Engraver, in the shadows of Eric Ravilious 

This is a legacy story from an earlier version of our website. It may contain some formatting issues and broken links.

In a perfect world, former Eastbourne resident Eileen ‘Tirzah’ Garwood (1908 – 1951) would be a household name and acknowledged as one of the most original and distinctive figures of twentieth century British art. Instead, as a mother of three children and the wife of the much more famous Eric Ravilious, she is often confined to the shadows of art’s story. 

Two Women in a Garden, 1933, Eric Ravilious, depicting his wife Tirzah Garwood to the right, shelling peas, with Charlotte Bawden to the left.

Garwood was born to a wealthy family in Gillingham, Kent and enjoyed a solidly respectable Edwardian childhood which took her to Littlehampton, then Eastbourne, as the family relocated to different postings held by Garwood’s father who was an officer in the Royal Engineers. 

It was in Eastbourne where Garwood, nicknamed ‘Tirzah’ by her siblings went to school. In 1925 she went to the  Eastbourne School of Art where she met Ravilious who was teaching wood engraving in his first teaching post. Garwood started to make her own wood engravings in 1926.  By the following year she was already exhibiting and attracting attention for her accomplished work. Unusually for wood engraving it portrayed people, places and animals often in a domestic setting and caught in a fleeting moment.  Notably, she exhibited at the Society of Wood Engravers’ annual exhibition of 1927 and drew acclaim from The Times.  Garwood went on to take commissions from the BBC and produced pattern designs for book covers and end papers for the Kynoch, Curwen and Golden Cockerel Presses. She illustrated composer Granville Bantock’s oratorio ‘The Pilgrim’s Progress’ written for the BBC.  In the late 1920s, at the height of the popularity of wood engravings, Garwood was considered one of the most promising, skilful and original practitioners of the day, with her work feted for its sense of humour and touch of eccentricity.   

In 1930, despite her parents’ disapproval, Garwood married Ravilious who as the son of a shopkeeper was considered – in Garwood’s words – ‘not quite a gentleman’.  Sadly this was the end to her wood engraving and she produced no more work after her marriage.  Reasons put forward for this include the domestic and maternal realities of being a wife in the 1930s. It’s tempting to view Garwood’s engraving ‘The Wife’ completed three months before her marriage, in which a lone woman sits on a bed with a pensive expression on her face as expressing possible foreboding about what the demands of marriage might do to her career.  But also, as the Great Depression dawned, a drop in demand for this expensive work may have played a role.   

In 1931 the couple moved to rural Essex, initially living with the married artists, Eric and Charlotte Bawden, the centre of the artistic community later to be known as the Great Bardfield Artists.  The early 1930s saw the couple often returning to East Sussex as guests of artist Peggy Angus at her cottage ‘Furlongs’ near Glynde.  With the initial help and collaboration of Charlotte Bawden, Garwood began to experiment with marbled papers during her time at Great Bardfield.   These delicate repeating designs on thin paper were used for lampshades and books.  Garwood’s stood out for their delicacy and the ethereal design which brought to mind leaves, grasses, flowers and other dream-like natural forms. 

In 1942 Garwood became seriously ill and it was while she was recovering from an emergency mastectomy that she received the shocking news of the disappearance of Ravilious. Working as a war artist, an aircraft in which he was a passenger had disappeared over Iceland.  His body would never be recovered.  Widowed and with three young children to care for, Garwood, now living in the village of Wethersfield near Braintree, turned again to art, this time painting. 

Her subsequent oil paintings of natural scenes show figures, insects, birds and flowers in an almost-but-not-quite realistic settings painted in jewel like colours. The enchanted and slightly otherworldy atmosphere of fairy stories have been described by curator, author and lecturer, James Russell as ‘demonstrating … a similar clarity to that seen in Eric’s watercolours, and a similar gaze – at once innocent and a little mysterious, even disturbing.’  At this time Garwood also made intriguing three dimensional models of houses, schools, cottages and chapels from card, paper and leaf prints which were placed in shallow box frames.    

In 1946 Garwood married radio producer, Henry Swanzy, but unfortunately she died just five years later aged only forty-two.  In 1952 a memorial exhibition was held at the Towner Gallery in Eastbourne, the town where she had started her artistic journey.   

Although, a little like her friend, Sussex artist Peggy Angus, who also had to balance working as an artist with bringing up children on her own, Garwood’s name seems to have dropped out of the canon of twentieth century British artists. In the last few years she seems rightfully to be enjoying a renaissance. 

In 2012 Garwood’s autobiography ‘Long Live Great Bardfield & Love to You All’, was edited by her daughter, Anne Ullmann, and published to considerable interest. Intended  as a private memoir for her family, it was written in spare moments while recovering from illness in 1942.

In 2017 the landmark exhibition ‘Ravilious & Co: the Pattern of Friendship’ at the Towner Gallery in Eastbourne shone a light on her life and showed some of her work.  Last year, the Fry Art Gallery in Saffron Walden told the story of Garwood and Ravilious’ life and the parallels in their work in the exhibition ‘Mr and Mrs Ravilious’. This was the first time the work of both artists has been presented from an intertwined personal perspective.   

By all accounts, despite the sadnesses of her later life, Tirzah Garwood was a cheerful woman who wasn’t afraid to look beyond accepted taste and produce original and unconventional work.  Her wood engravings can still raise a smile and her marbled papers and paintings remain unusual and appealing.  With today’s growing interest in hitherto neglected women artists, let’s hope her popularity continues to grow. 

 

With grateful thanks to James Russell www.jamesrussellontheweb.blogspot.com 

 Written by social historian Louise Peskett

 

 

Mid-Week Draw Online: Week 8

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Beth has a bird theme for you this week. She has drawn an image of the stilts using a single line (“I love that fast kind of drawing!”) Will you give it a try? 

Beth

Draw Artists

We are very pleased to see that some of you have taken part in our online Mid-Week Draw, here are some of the fantastic works that have been sent in.

Ossie

Join In

If you are tempted to have a go, please share your drawings with us. We would love to see them. Email them to Beth at beth.burr@brighton-hove.gov.uk 

Tweet @BrightonMuseums or if you are uploading them to Facebook with pride, share the url in the comments section below.

Come back next Wednesday to see what new objects Beth has chosen.

Alternative drawing ideas:

  • Draw the clouds, or wait until sunset and try to capture the colours
  • Draw a pile of unfolded laundry
  • See if you can draw or paint your favourite painting / portrait. 

Discover More

The Mid-Week Draw

Beth Burr, Museum Support Officer

Peggy Angus (1904-1993): Artist, Designer, Teacher 

This is a legacy story from an earlier version of our website. It may contain some formatting issues and broken links.

‘Peggy Angus was a warrior.  Women weren’t supposed to be like that.’  

Just a few miles east of Brighton on the A27 stands a small flint faced cottage near Firle called ‘Furlongs’.  This was once the home of an extraordinary twentieth century artist, who despite a unique legacy of paintings of people and landscape – many depicting the Downs – beautiful wallpapers and tile murals, is far from being the house-hold name she deserves to be.   

Peggy Angus: Designer, Teacher, Painter by James Russell, published 2014 by ACC Arts

Margaret MacGregor ‘Peggy’ Angus was Scottish but born in Chile where her father was a railway engineer.  Aged 17 and resettled with her family in London, Peggy won a scholarship to the Royal College of Art where her contemporaries included Barbara Hepworth, Henry Moore and Edward Bawden, and where she was taught by Paul Nash (who later claimed that she was the most obstinate student he’d ever taught).  With her brothers and father lost in the First World War it became apparent that, for Peggy, art would have to be a means to earn money, and fast.  She trained to be an art teacher and in the early 1930s, with one of her teaching jobs bringing her to Eastbourne, she discovered ‘Furlongs’ during a walk on the Downs. 

The story goes that Peggy fell instantly in love with the ramshackle and primitive stone cottage without running water and decided she must have it.  When the local farmer who happened to be living in it refused, Peggy simply set up a tent and camped outside, biding her time until he changed his mind a few months later.  Furlongs was initially a weekend retreat where she could immerse herself in painting.  One of her closest friends and frequent visitors to Furlongs was the now well-known Eastbourne artist, Eric Ravilious.  The two would pack up their equipment, take a picnic and go off onto the Downs painting together, often choosing to depict the same landscape. 

Unlike Ravilious whose depictions are famously empty of people and isolated, making the landscapes of the South Downs haunting and magical, Peggy’s show a version that is full-blooded and immersed in everyday life, warts and all. ‘I like doing life, things happening,’ she said about her robust depictions of cattle, rat-catchers, threshing, and milking cows.  Furlongs became something of an alternative Charleston.  Not only Ravilious and his wife, the artist and engraver Tirzah Garwood, but also Herbert Read, Serge Chermayeff (co-architect of Bexhill-on-Sea’s De La Warr Pavilion), Brighton artist Percy Horton, John and Myfanwy Piper, painter and Bauhaus professor Laszlo Moholy-Nagy, among others, were frequent guests, despite the lack of electricity and running water. 

A landmark exhibition of Peggy’s work at Eastbourne’s Towner Art Gallery in 2014 recreated one of Furlong’s rooms and its burst of colour, gorgeous wallpaper, murals and unmatching crockery gave a hint of the cosy welcome they received.   

Peggy took her teaching seriously. She had visited the Soviet Union in 1932 for the Art Teachers Conference and been impressed by the country’s equality for women and view of the artist as a potential for good in the world.  Nicknamed ‘Red Peggy’ by many of her friends for her politics, she always considered teaching and inspiring others as part of the artist’s responsibility towards society.  Students remember her classes at schools in Sussex and London, and then, as Head of Art at North London Collegiate School, as innovative and fun.  Peggy believed in building up her students’ confidence, if not to become artists themselves, to become people who would always appreciate art.  Even in old age, Peggy could be seen with a rucksack slung over her shoulder, travelling from Furlongs to London by public transport to teach evening classes to senior citizens.   

Post Second World War, when art materials were in short supply, ever practical Peggy turned to potatoes in her teaching, encouraging her students to experiment with potato printing.  One evening FRS ‘Kay’ York, one of the architects involved in the nationwide post-war reconstruction of schools and public buildings, came to dinner, saw the tiles and thought they’d make good murals. Peggy went on to become a prolific and beautiful tile designer, her simple but starkly colourful geometric patterns the perfect way to soften the hard materials and angular lines of the new buildings of the 1940s and ‘50s. Her tile work embellished, among other places, schools, universities, public squares, Heathrow Airport and Heathrow Underground Station.  In 1958 she created a tile mural for the British Industry Pavilion at the Brussels World Fair.  Her marbldesign on glass cladding decorated the original Gatwick Airport but is sadly, like most of her mural work, now long demolished.  A mural in Glyndwr University, Wrexham remains, its bright yellow and red dragon pattern on the walls of a staircase casting a cheerful atmosphere to this day.  Peggy Angus also created wallpaper.  Like her tiles, these were often wonderful geometric patterns often in two shades of the same colour.  Ever practical again, she would design them in emulsion paint so clients would be able to mix and match them to their houses with ease. 

Peggy Angus’s tile mural at the entrance to the British Pavilion at Brussels World Fair, 1958

There are many opinions as to why this original, innovative and talented artist and designer isn’t better known.  Perhaps, some think, it was the circumstances of her life – a single, divorced mother with two children meant that, unlike many of her male contemporaries who had the luxury of slipping off to places like Paris to experiment for a few years, she had to work constantly to put food on the table.  There was also her social conscience which led her to spend a lot of energy sharing her talent, nurturing, encouraging, lighting sparks in other people.  Writing in The Observer in 2014 Rachel Cooke writes that it may also have been that ultimate stumbling block to female success, her refusal to conform to stereotypes: ‘For women of Angus’s generation, professional life was rarely anything less than a struggle: they were required to be tough and, as a result, often seemed difficult…Peggy Angus was a warrior.  Women weren’t supposed to be like that.’  

Peggy’s portraits of fellow artist, John Piper, and the family of Ramsay MacDonald can be seen today in the National Portrait Gallery.  A wonderful book, ‘Peggy Angus: Designer, Teacher, Painter‘ by James Russell is an excellent read for anyone wanting to discover a fuller picture of this interesting and generous artist.   

http://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2014/jul/06/peggy-angus-warrior-painter-designer-tiles-wallpaper 

Written by social historian, Louise Peskett 

The story behind the picture: Recreating Oscar Wilde’s 1884 visit to the Royal Pavilion

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The infamous playwright and poet, Oscar Wilde visited the Royal Pavilion and presented two of his popular art & life lectures on 17 and 18 November 1884. To mark the anniversary of the occasion we recreated Wilde’s visit on Saturday 19 November 2011 staging a living history presentation in which Oscar Wilde and his Aesthetic companions promenade the palace. Here is the story of how the event came about.

The event planning process

In 2011 I was working as Royal Pavilion & Museums Learning Officer with responsibility for the adult event programme and this was one of the 53 public events of that year. Each event was staged as the result of a methodical planning process.

My first stage of the process was to submit the idea to the departmental Creative Programming panel about eight months before the intended date of the event. This was always done to ensure any proposed event met with a series of key service objectives.

This particular event was offered to the panel for consideration with a range of objectives including its appeal to audiences with a specific interest in Oscar Wilde as well as people interested in Brighton’s history, interior design and the Victorian era. The event was aimed at a broad audience from families to the LGBT community and specialists since the event included an illustrated lecture.

Achieving objectives

As proof of success in achieving the objective of increasing visitor numbers to the Royal Pavilion I quoted two previous Oscar Wilde themed events; a lunchtime lecture at the Old Courtroom in 2007 which bought the largest ever audience to the lecture programme and a recent visit by over 100 members of the Brighton & Hove National Trust Association who attended a lecture about Oscar Wilde at Hove Museum.

As a character from history Oscar Wilde had proven pulling power.

I proposed the event title as Oscar Wilde and the Royal Pavilion with the following description:

Oscar Wilde in person promenades the Pavilion dressed in his Aesthetic costume accompanied by Aesthetic Movement followers and poets. The characters discuss the Pavilion interiors in enacted vignettes. The event also contains an additional lecture in the Red Drawing Room on the subject of Oscar Wilde with specific reference to his visits to the Royal Pavilion, Brighton and the South Coast and his views on interior design

Inspiring audiences

I proposed three major aims regarding enjoyment, learning and the inspiration audiences would derive from the event emphasising the way it would promote and highlight the Royal Pavilion & Museums collections.

The event will increase visitor knowledge about:

1) The Victorian history of the Royal Pavilion.

2) Famous visitors to the Royal Pavilion once it became a public building.

3) How Brighton used the Royal Pavilion once it was no longer a royal palace.

Peopling the event

Public events also had a staff learning and development objective and this included offering opportunities for museum volunteers. This event was staffed by members of the Royal Pavilion & Museums Learning team, more often seen working as museum teachers in the school programme and a drama-student volunteer from Lewes Sixth Form College who worked with me in the planning process and on the day. I’d visited the college on 5 July and presented a talk to a year group of students aiming to inspire them regarding opportunities to be found working in museums and historic houses as living history actors. The majority of the young people I spoke to had no idea such interesting careers existed.

Bringing history alive with people & costume

 

From the beginning I knew I wanted Oscar Wilde to appear to bring his character alive and give Royal Pavilion visitors the sense they’d travelled back to 1884. Fortunately, we had experienced staff on the team who could step into roles I’d chosen. These were Oscar Wilde himself and a small party of women to play the role of his devoted admirers. Most of the costume was already held in the store of facsimile period dress held at Preston Manor including a real-hair wig for Oscar whose tousled poetic locks were his especial trademark.

I wanted the women to appear in what was known at the time as Aesthetic Dress, that is clothing approved by Oscar Wilde as being the opposite of the tightly corseted modes of the day. Wilde believed women should dress is looser styles freeing the body to move unrestrained and thereby achieve true beauty. The crinoline, the hoop, fussy frilly trimmings and unnatural silhouettes were ugly and out and soft-colours, art-embroidery and classical drapes were in.

The Aesthetic (or Artistic) Dress Movement was the first anti-fashion or alternative fashion movement and was often derided at the time. The humorous Punch Magazine ran a series of satirical cartoons depicting Aesthetic persons adopting exaggerated poetic poses at art galleries and soulfully gazing at lilies in restaurants to gain sustenance in lieu of food. It was to these cartoons I turned because of the way the artist exaggerated the gowns worn by Aesthetic ladies. Volunteers with dressmaking skills adapted two garments. One, an Aesthetically-approved Renaissance-style costume with rich-green velvet tunic, simple wide white lace collar and loose flowing skirt. The other was an amalgamation of two dresses, the finished gown displaying the favoured medieval-inspired wide sleeves, long flowing train hung loosely from the shoulders and tapered to a tabard-effect at the front.

Colour and specific motifs were of the greatest importance. The Aesthetics favoured olive-green, terracotta, peacock blue and amber-gold with peacock feathers, sunflowers and lilies as popular motifs used in wallpaper, stained-glass, textiles, book illustrations, tiles and decorative artistically crafted home items.

Studying Oscar for homework

To ensure everyone involved in the event could answer visitor questions and to fully prepare them for the challenge of portraying historical characters I created a file of fact-sheets and background-history documents for participants to study ahead of the event. I especially needed them to know why Oscar Wilde came to Brighton and what he spoke about at the Royal Pavilion. To this end I looked at contemporary newspaper reports.

The Brighton Herald sent a reporter to Wilde’s lectures, which were themed to The Value of Art in Modern Life and Dress so there was plenty of first-hand reference material available.

I required my 2011 Oscar to study the description of Oscar at the Royal Pavilion as reported in the Brighton Herald on 22 November 1884

“a rather tall, well-proportioned young man, with a full, clean-shaven, somewhat effeminate face, pleasant in expression, and of unvarying placidity. His hair is long and waving, falling low on his neck and over each side of his forehead and temples…his bearing, as he lounges and poses at the back of a chair, is easy and graceful; his voice is soft and pleasant; his language florid and polished, and strongly tinged at times with quiet sarcasm and humour”

A cello coat

Scholars of Wilde continue to debate whether or not Oscar’s wardrobe contained a coat designed to look like a cello, which some reports have him wearing at a private view at the Grosvenor Gallery in London. The art gallery was known in Wilde’s time for displaying works outside mainstream art such as those by the Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood and James McNeill Whistler. The sighting of such a coat has been tracked down to an entry in a private diary dated 1880 and published in 1921 at which the diarist writes of Oscar’s inspiration come from a dream of “a coat of a peculiar make and colour which somehow reminded him of a violincello” which he had made up by a tailor in an unusual cloth that looked bronze in some light and red in another with a peculiar seam at the back resembling the construction of a cello, which may or may not have been coincidental.

This possibly apocryphal but fabulous-sounding garment was the inspiration behind a red and black cello-dress put on display in the William IV Room at the Royal Pavilion on 19 November 2011 made and owned by a member of Royal Pavilion & Museums staff shown here wearing an Aesthetic Movement inspired dress in Wilde-approved muted purples. She stands next to a mannequin dressed in a black and white gown embroidered with designs by the works of Brighton-born illustrator, Aubrey Beardsley (1872-1898) who was a leading figure in the Aesthetic Movement.

VLUU L200 / Samsung L200

A successful event

I wrote in my 2011 diary of the day’s success and how, because of the unseasonable fine weather, the costumed characters promenaded outside the Royal Pavilion delighting passers-by and encouraging them to come into the Pavilion and find out more. I add that the lecture was attended by the Chairman of the Oscar Wilde Society who kindly bought with him a letter written by Wilde himself (penned to a publisher) and which was put on display for the duration of the one-day event in a locked display-case specially sourced for the occasion.

 

Paula Wrightson, Venue Officer, Preston Manor

 

 

 

Royals in Ceramic Capture Victorian Hearts

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Welcome back to our Cultural Icons series exploring the fascinating stories behind the people commemorated in flatback ornaments in the Willett Collection of Popular Pottery in the Brighton Museum.

Many of these Victorian souvenirs, which are only decorated on the front so they can sit on a mantelpiece were on display at Hove Museum this year.

They were usually of famous and sometimes infamous people in the Victoria era who we would now call stars or celebrities. The hearth, the centre of the home, provided an ideal space for the flatback as a conversation piece inspiring discussion and fascination among family and visitors alike.

Royals and left-wing politicians

Whilst unsurprisingly the most popular royal subject of the day was Queen Victoria, a number of flatbacks were made of foreign royalty. The public was especially keen on British allies during the Crimean War of 1854, especially France.

We have Napoleon III of France (1808-1873) and his wife Empress Eugenie (1826-1920) nursing their only child Eugenie, the Prince Imperial, c1870.

Napoleon III, the nephew of Napoleon Bonaparte had spent most of his youth in exile. Returning to France after the 1848 Revolution, he was declared Emperor in 1852. He first met Eugenie, a renowned beauty and the daughter of the Count of Montigo of Spain in 1849 in Paris. They married in 1852 when she was aged just 23. 

A well-educated, headstrong young woman, Napoleon often consulted her on political matters and she acted as Regent when he was abroad. Unfortunately due to her Catholicism and conservatism she often countered any liberal tendencies in her husband’s policies. With the Fall of the Second Empire in 1870, both were exiled to England. After their flight from France, the couple stayed for a time at the Grand Hotel in Brighton. Their baby son was later killed in the Zulu War of 1879 leaving Eugenie devastated.

Also on display is a figure group of Queen Victoria with the King of Sardinia, Victor Emmanuel III (1820-1878), c1860. The King of Sardinia was another popular subject as his country had sent a corps of soldiers to help the British and French in the Crimean War.

A politician for the potters

Left-wing politicians were other popular subjects, reflecting the potter’s own concerns and working life as well as the political leanings of the lower middle and working classes who purchased them.

Meet the politician and economist Richard Cobden (1804-1865). resplendent in his brilliant cobalt blue coat. Elected MP for Stockport, an advocate of free trade and low taxation, and famous for founding the Anti-Corn League in 1838, Cobden was a firm favourite of the potters. The piece was made to commemorate his role in bringing about the abolition of the Corn Laws in 1846, as evidenced in the cornucopia of corn that he sits beside.

Discover More

Follow our Cultural Icons series as we explore some of these fascinating flatbacks and discover of these early celebrities.

Cecilia Kendall, Curator, Collections Projects

Hero or Villain? Cultural Icons of the Museum Collective

This is a legacy story from an earlier version of our website. It may contain some formatting issues and broken links.

Members of the Museum Collective – a youth group run regularly by Royal Pavilion & Museums – worked with local ceramist Louise Bell to create figurative ceramics based on the theme of heroes and villains.

They created these works as a response to Hove Museum’s exhibition Cultural Icons: Remaking a Popular Pottery Tradition which took a modern take on the Victorian Staffordshire flatback. Victorian flatback figures were a distinctive pottery form which emerged in the 1830s to meet public demand for objects that depicted iconic people and major events.

Emperor Napoleon III, c1857 Earthenware, enamelled and gilt, Empress Eugenie holding the Prince Imperial, c1857 Earthenware, enamelled and gilt, from Royal Pavilion & Museums collection

Emperor Napoleon III, c1857 Earthenware, enamelled and gilt, Empress Eugenie holding the Prince Imperial, c1857 Earthenware, enamelled and gilt, from Royal Pavilion & Museums collection

But what is a hero or a villain? Can someone be both at once? The Museum Collective explored this idea:

Collective member Callum said his ceramic piece was “a recreation of a scene from Spec Ops: The Line, a video game adaptation of Joseph Conrad’s Heart Of Darkness. The game repeatedly states there are no clear cut heroes in war, and has the player and their in-game avatar Walker participate in horrific actions despite having noble goals.”

Spec Ops: The Line, Callum

Spec Ops: The Line, Callum © Louise Bell

Emily looked at a historical figure linked with the traditional Staffordshire flatback, “for my ceramics I chose to portray Queen Victoria in an image which she is recognisable for, older in age and wearing black, a crown and a white veil. I chose to portray this image of Queen Victoria as I envisage her as a character where the image of hero/villain can be blurred. I myself have often regarded her as a hero, a female ruler during a time where the role of women was contested and constrained. However, I have also come to see her to represent the British Empire and imperialism with the difficult connotations this represents. The image of, if not the person herself presents contradictions which can be viewed as both a hero and villain, not a clear character.”

Queen Victoria, Emily © Louise Bell

Long-term MC members, Rowan and Eliph, stated “we decided to work collaboratively, and were inspired by the story of the Gruffalo. We explored who was the villain of the story. We played with scale to suggest that the mouse was the true villain. We wanted to make the piece accessible for all ages, using a well known story like the Gruffalo.”

The Gruffalo, Rowan and Eliph

The Gruffalo, Rowan and Eliph © Louise Bell

Another member Jacob noted “with my ceramic piece, I wanted to really embrace how symbolically Medusa, as a Greek Mythological character, is an allegorical figure for fatal beauty and a statue for a feminist rage. The reason behind this is the inequality and the mistreatment of women that is still happening today – therefore this is relevant to how easily males objectify and materialise women as something to control.”

Medusa, Jacob

Medusa, Jacob © Louise Bell

New member Dorothy mused “when I was told what we’d be doing in this ceramic workshop it was really hard, at first, to think of what Heroes and Villains really were – and after hearing and seeing everybody else’s amazing work, I think it must mean something different to everyone. Who came to mind for me was Nurse Ratched, from the book (and film) One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest by Ken Kesey. The nurse really stuck with me as someone, who despite not being real, I truly detest. Possibly as despite being in a position of trust, one intended for caring for people – she is still one of the worst villains I can think of.”

Nurse Ratched, Dorothy

Nurse Ratched, Dorothy © Louise Bell

Whereas Charlotte chose a hero, she said “I based my ceramic on Sue Heck from The Middle; I chose her because her character is really quirky and optimistic even though everything goes wrong for her all the time.”

Sue Heck from The Middle, Charlotte

Sue Heck from The Middle, Charlotte, © Louise Bell

Another member Amelia said “The character that I chose was Pearl from Steven Universe. That cartoon played an important part in my childhood and Pearl has always been my favourite character. She’s smart, brave, caring, generous and strong. I admire her characteristics since she does not portray the stereotypical ideas of female. Even though she’s strong and independent, she also has a delicate heart and is a very loving character.”

Pearl from Stephen's Universe, Ameila

Pearl from Steven Universe, Amelia © by Louise Bell

Thanatcha also used a hero, “I chose ‘Totoro’ by Studio Ghibli as my hero because the character is from a film that I have watched since I was little and it reminds me of my childhood. In my opinion, the character is a representation of cheerfulness and warmth.”

Totoro, Thanatcha

Totoro, Thanatcha, © Louise Bell

Back of Totoro figure, Thanatcha

Back of Totoro figure, Thanatcha © Louise Bell

Discover More

Want to join the Museum Collective? They’re a group of young people (14-25 years) who are interested in all things arts, museums and heritage. We meet regularly at Brighton Museum and do lots of fun projects like this one. If you want to join us, email sarah.pain@brighton-hove.gov.uk

  • Unfortunately the Museum Collective is not currently running due to Covid-19 but do get in touch as we will re-start as soon as possible.